Lost in Chinatown

Ryan and I were searching for a new adventure in our travel books and found a Walking Tour through Chinatown. Our book provided a map and highlights of the tour, so we figured, why not? Plus, we figured we could orient ourselves with Chinatown before the Chinese New Year when it would be insanely packed with people! We jotted down a quick version of the map with a few extensions as we were picking up the tour from the subway and intended on departing from the river via riverboat taxi, instead of following the tour as shown in the book (insert foreboding music). Confidently we headed off into Chinatown.
When we first arrived, both of us were pretty disappointed. Chinatown looked like any other street in Bangkok, only with Chinese writing on the stores. But we were already here, so we kept on going. Our walking tour took us down Trok Itsaranuphap, a main thoroughfare where we were supposed to see rows of vendors selling various foods, a number of gold shops, etc. But it didn't seem as incredible as we were led to believe. Where were the masses of people? Only a few of the vendors were out, and their "delicacies" didn't look too impressive.
Finally, we found Sampeng Lane. This is the Chinatown we were waiting for. Basically, this is an alley crammed to the brim with venders, food, and people . . . so many people.
In 1782, Sampeng was a trading centre - it was built near the river for easy access for goods bound for the international markets. I am positive that if you simply changed the clothing on everyone, it would have been exactly the same!
This market was INSANE! It was also the reason Ryan and I dubbed this place Crazy Town. It is a good thing neither of us was claustrophobic, but this place stretches you to your limits. Picture a narrow lane with vendors on either side. Now place about 4 feet in between the stalls and then picture everyone playing "how many people can we fit in this phone booth" but replace the phone booth with the lane. Now imagine some people trying to stop and bargain with the vendors, vendors trying to grab your attention through various catcalls, music, megaphones, etc, people trying to shove their way through - even though there is no where to go, and then there is you smack in the middle of this just trying to have a look . . . oh yes, and don't forget that amidst this insanity you have to be conscious of your valuables at all times as Chinatown is famous for its pickpockets (this is why there are no pictures). While initially Sampeng Lane was entertaining - it is definitely an experience worthy of Chinatown - it very quickly become quite irritating. At the beginning Ryan and I would look at the stalls and saw a variety of foods that I had never seen before, various clothes and shoes, stationary and a multitude of Hello Kitty everything. But as the vendors all seemed to carry variations of the same things, and we weren't there for the shopping, Sampeng lane became old very quickly. The problem of course is that you are trapped. As soon as you get caught up in the line of slow-moving people there is no escape. The only way out is to keep going. You can see the light up ahead, but you are only advancing inch by inch.
Sampeng Lane went along about three blocks with cross streets that separate the market. So, when we got to the end of the first block we rejoiced thinking we were finally out. This quickly turned to a somewhat shocked disbelief when we realized that we were not done yet. Our brief glimpse at freedom was quickly taken away as we entered back into the Lane.
After what seemed like hours we finally emerged and vowed never again to venture in to Sampeng Lane. Once was definitely enough. We consulted our map and headed towards the river for our trip home and perhaps a stop at one of the famed restaurants along the way. We very quickly realized that we were lost. Our "map" wasn't making sense and when we consulted our real map (which we thankfully had brought) we realized we had gone too far! We had gotten so disoriented in Sampeng Lane we had gone too far! We had to go back in! I almost wanted to cry, but Ryan and I turned to brave the Lane one last time. We shoved our way through and emerged victoriously onto the next block. We were positive that now we were on the right street.
We headed toward the river happy to leave Chinatown behind us. We passed a Wat and decided to check it out so that we could take some pictures and have something to show for our Chinatown adventure.


This is Wat Sam Pluem. It looked pretty straightforward until we walked a little further in. We saw a man standing on a ledge trying to look over a wall, so we went to take a look - and couldn't believe what we saw!

There is also a stuffed alligator encased in glass a little to the left. Apparently that was the first alligator to live at this temple, and they really loved him!
Apart form the alligators, there were also several other little characters ripping around . . .

We consulted our real map once again after we left the Wat. This is a tourist map and it shows where the most popular Wats are located. Tragically we realized there was no Wat where we thought we were. We were still lost! Luckily we did not have to venture back into Sampeng Lane, and I think at that point in time we would have done everything humanly possible not to! We simply detoured a little to find our way back, and FINALLY made it to the pier to pick up the river taxi. Exhausted and starving we rested as the boat took us back to the skytrain where we found dinner and headed for home.